If you want to get off the beaten path in Peru, look no further. The Cordillera Blanca is a well-kept secret, and the hiking in this region of the Andes Mountains is known as some of the best in the world. Come along as guest author, Daniel Daniel Caracciolo, takes you through his journey to Huaraz and a place he describes as the “most underrated place in South America”.
Written Guest Author: Daniel Caracciolo
While we spent 3 months backpacking in South America in early 2014, we heard whispers about a place fellow travelers claimed was Peru’s best kept secret: the Cordillera Blanca; a mountain range just outside the small town of Huaraz.
We heard that the hiking was incredible; and without the crowds of Machu Picchu, many people raved that this hidden gem was their favorite place in South America.
Hiking in the Cordillera Blanca is on our bucket list for our next trip to Peru (along with some other lesser-known destinations), and our friend Daniel Caracciolo from Destinationless Travel has shared his experience and tips with us!
After reading his account, we certainly have a bad case of wanderlust and can’t wait to get off the beaten path in Peru!
Cordillera Blanca Travel Guide
- Cordillera Blanca overview
- When to go
- How to get there
- Where to eat in Huarez
- Where to stay in Huarez
- Most popular hikes in Cordillera Blanca
- What to pack for hiking in Cordillera Blanca
Note: All photos in this guest post have been provided by Dan and Bailey of Destinationless Travel.
Cordillera Blanca overview
While traveling it’s not uncommon, and in fact, is almost guaranteed that your plans will change.
You might overhear a conversation, talk with some locals at a bar, or simply share stories at a hostel. Perhaps you’ll hear of an exciting adventure so tempting it will change your current path, sending you to a place you never knew existed.
Something as simple as overhearing a conversation amongst travelers let me in on a well-kept secret: the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
Where is the Cordillera Blanca?
The Cordillera Blanca is a chain of mountains that is part of the greater Andes mountain range. Many of its peaks sore over 6,000 meters with the highest called “Huascaran” standing at 6,768 meter above sea level.
The Cordillera Blanca is a place where the air is thin and the wind is ice cold. Its terrain is steep and unforgiving. The few people who live in these remote mountains get the benefit of witnessing the beauty every day – but they also must survive the harsh environment (which I also experienced firsthand).
Planning a Trip to Peru? Find out the best time to visit Peru based on regional weather patterns and your personal travel style.
A well-kept secret
Despite my love for hiking I had never even heard a whisper about this place. Even up until a week before I would step foot on one of the Cordillera Blanca’s trails, its beauty was not yet in my sights.
Lucky for me, as I sat at a small table in Peru’s Amazon Jungle on a rainy day, I overheard a group of travelers talking about the most amazing hike they did in South America.
The hike they sat and reminisced about with hot tea and large smiles that day was the Huayhuash Trek (pronounced like why-wash).
I quickly joined the conversation and within a few minutes of talking and seeing just a few photos, my travel plans had drastically changed. Before I knew it, I was booking buses to Northern Peru.
Although the Huayhuash hike is what originally brought me to the Cordillera Blanca Mountains, it was so much more that made me fall in love with it!
Huarez, Peru
Huaraz is a small town nestled in the Cordillera Blanca. Its inhabitants share what could be some of the most beautiful surrounding views.
Though in some places touristic, this town is real Peru. The local markets sell live Guinea Pigs for special occasion dinners while food vendors line the streets selling ceviche and other authentic Peruvian dishes. The people dress in traditional clothing, their faces cracked from the harsh dry air, and English is rarely spoken.
It is from this small town that so many breathtaking hikes are at one’s fingertips. Some hikes, like the “Laguna 69” take only one day to complete, and although short, display some amazing views of snow capped mountains and the bluest lakes I have ever seen.
Other hikes are week-long journeys through subzero temperatures, steep terrain, and areas where help is not near. From Huaraz, travelers also have the opportunity to visit glaciers, hot springs and even spend days learning how to rock climb.
For any adventure lover, Huaraz is the gateway to one of the most magnificent playgrounds in the world.
Where are all the people?
The thing that shocked me most about Huaraz is the lack of visitors. There are enough people for it to be considered touristic, but in comparison to its hiking neighbors in the south like Bariloche, El Chalten or Puerto Natales, it remains untouched!
Most hikers from around the world miss this unforgettable place when visiting Peru or South America in general. To me, the Cordillera Blanca is one of the most underrated places in Latin America.
All levels welcome
The inexpensive entrance fees to the parks, knowledgeable guides, and cheap gear rentals means Huaraz is accessible to a lot of budget travelers.
For these reasons, those who visit Huaraz are a group of people who really love adventure. Without judgment, all levels hike together sharing the most amazing stories.
While I was there, I met people of all ages from all over the world. A family with a young kid headed off on the 4-day Santa Cruz hike, some girls on their first hike tackled the Laguna 69, some crazy Israelis went ice climbing for 3 days to over 6,000 meters, and I tackled what would be the hardest hike of my life: the 8-day Huayhuash.
But no matter what the experience level, the Cordillera Blanca seemed to give every person that visited their own unique and unforgettable experience.
For a lot people, it is the dream of climbing peaks or camping at lakes which draws them to the Cordillera Blanca; but for me, it was fate. And maybe while you read this, it is becoming yours!
Complete guide to visiting the Cordillera Blanca
If you’ve been convinced to put the Cordillera Blanca on your Peru itinerary, this information will come in super handy for planning your visit to Huaraz and the surrounding area.
You’ll learn about the 3 most popular hikes as well as how to get there, where to stay in Huaraz and where to eat.
When to go to Cordillera Blanca
The Cordillera Blanca is best hiked in and around the winter months (April – October). This is due to Peru’s wet summers forcing closures of some trails and making others more dangerous. The time of year between April and October is actually known as the Andean Summer however these are the winter months in Peru.
Getting to and from Cordillera Blanca
Access to the Cordillera Blanca is done from the town of Huaraz. Huaraz is located 8 hours north of Peru’s capital, Lima.
Night buses are the best way to get there and leave regularly. Bookings and bus times can be viewed on Red Bus Peru.
Where to eat in Huaraz
Huaraz is filled with local restaurants that serve meals for only a few dollars. However, if you want to try the local delicacy “Cuy” (Guinea Pig) Huaraz is the perfect place. Cuy is regularly eaten in this region and a trip to the local markets will prove that!
If you want something more fancy, there is a great French restaurant in town called Creperie Patrick. It is easy to find on the main street and any local will be able to point you in the right direction.
Where to stay in Huaraz
For our stay in Huaraz, we opted for one of the cheapest places called Raju Guesthouse. When we stayed, we paid around 20 soles ($6 USD) per night and found this a good option for those on a budget. The Wi-Fi, beds, location and owner were great and it included a free basic breakfast. The hot water was rather difficult to get working though.
If constant hot water is a must for you, our friends stayed at Hostel Akilpo and said the showers, location, Wi-Fi were good. This hostel is also slightly closer to the center of town.
Hauraz is a small town so the location of your accommodation is rather insignificant as everything is within walking distance.
3 Most popular hikes in Cordillera Blanca
If you plan to visit the Cordillera Blanca, you most likely are looking to go trekking. Below, you’ll find descriptions of the most popular hikes so you will know what to expect.
Laguna 69
Laguna 69 is likely the most popular hike in the area. The one day trek takes you to a beautiful laguna that shines blue. This awesome hike is short and is a lot less difficult than the other treks in the area and is perfect for acclimatization for the other longer hikes. The hike begins at 3600m and finishes at a whopping 4600m above sea level so be prepared for a little altitude sickness!
Cost: The day hike costs around 30 soles and includes transport and a guide.
Santa Cruz
The Santa Cruz is another popular hike that takes between 3 to 4 days to complete depending on your speed and route. This hike is hard and if you have little to no experience it could be wise to take a guide. On this hike it is possible to see Laguna 69 on the fourth day of hiking.
Cost: A tour for the Santa Cruz hike starts at 350 soles with a guide and donkeys. Park fees are around 65 soles.
Huayhuash
The Huayhuash Hike isn’t actually in the Cordillera Blanca but is a trail through the neighboring mountain range, the Cordillera Huayhuash. However, to access the Huayhuash you must start in the town of Huaraz as well as take a scenic 5-hour long drive through the Cordillera Blanca to the beginning of the trail.
As far as hikes go in the Cordillera Blanca without the use of ice climbing equipment, the Huayhuash is the hardest. The 8 to 12 day hike (depending on speed/route) takes you deep into the mountain range. With overnight temperatures in the winter of -15 C this hike should only be completed by experienced hikers without a guide. I personally found this hike to be difficult even with a guide and donkeys carrying supplies.
Cost: A tour for the Huayhuash starts at around 450 soles with park fees being another 200 soles.
What to pack for hiking in the Cordillera Blanca
Like many hikes in Peru, you’ll likely be renting a lot of your gear from Huarez when you arrive. Here are some things to keep in mind when packing…
- Hiking boots: It’s not recommended to attempt hiking in this region without sturdy hiking boots.
- Comfortable hiking clothes (lots of layers!)
- Bring enough base layers for the amount of days you’ll be on your trek, the outer layers and pants can be reworn day after day.
- Sun protection: sunscreen, sunglasses and hat (optional)
- Insect repellant (we prefer the natural stuff)
- Camera and tripod (this is our favorite tripod for hiking)
- Portable battery pack: This will come in handy as there is no place to plug in your electronics on the trail (a solar powered power bank would also be a great idea!)
- Hand sanitizer
- Rain gear: It’s a good idea to bring a packable rain jacket in case you run into rain on the trail
- Hiking snacks: Alpaca Expeditions provides some snacks each day, but I was glad I brought some protein bars along as well.
Backpacking gear
- Hiking backpack with a rain cover: you’ll want to be sure you have a decent backpack that fits well for hiking
- Hydration pack: The best way to stay hydrated on the trail is with a hydration pack (we recommend this one with built-in water filtration), if you don’t want to use one of these, be sure to bring a water bottle that holds a minimum of 2 liters of water
- Optional: Electrolyte supplements
- Navigation (physical map or AllTrails loaded on phone along with a portable battery charger)
- Toiletries: soap, shampoo, conditioner, deodorant, cleansing wipes
- Camping pillow (optional)
- We have this one, but opted not to bring it to save space. Instead, we balled up our rain jackets and used them as pillows.
Rentable backpacking gear
- Lightweight tent
- Sleeping bag rated for cooler temps
- Ultralight sleeping pad
- Trekking poles: You can rent these in town.
Final words from Daniel: I hope this post has inspired you to travel this amazing part of the world. If you need any more info on the area check out this website, which is full of information on the Cordillera Blanca.
About the guest author
Daniel is a 25 year old full-time writer and traveler from Australia. He just finished a 13 month long backpacking trip in Latin America and is heading off to New Zealand next for more hiking and camping! He blogs about his adventures on his blog called Destinationless Travel.
Are you planning a trip to Peru?
We have lots of resources on travel in Peru and destinations throughout the country. Check out our Complete Peru Travel Guide for all the answers to your most burning questions, or read some of our favorite articles below.
- Can’t-Miss Things to Do in Peru
- Sacred Valley Peru: Ultimate Guide
- Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
- Rainbow Mountain Peru: How to Get There & What to Expect
Save this article on Pinterest for later!
We want to hear from you!
Have you been to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru? What was your experience like? Are you planning a trip to Huaraz? What additional questions do you have? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below!
The pictures: 1, 3 and 5 do not belong to Cordillera Blanca, those pics are of Cordillera Huayhuash, the names of those places are: Tres lagunas, Carhuacocha and Jahuacocha. Please, use the right photos.
Hey Andres! Yes, they are from the Huayhuash! The blog post was written in hopes to promote the town of Huaraz and the hikes done from there. Since Huaraz is in the Cordillera Blanca we were trying to showcase the hikes done from the town as its such a beautiful area! We will add a few sentences to clear this up but thanks for pointing it out so others don’t get confused!
The best of those pics are from the Cordillera Huayhuash, not the Cordillera Blanca. That is pretty misleading
Hey Alex! Yes that’s totally correct. When I wrote the article I was really trying to talk about the hiking done from that area and trying to promote the town of Huaraz which I loved so much! Thanks for pointing that out we will add a few sentences that clear this up!
I’ve lived in the Cordillera Blanca outside of Huaraz for 15 months now, moved from Colorado, and its unfortunate that Huaraz has become synonymous with Huaraz as all the best places are a minimum 2 hours from the city. However, there are a handful of mountainlodges that serve amazing food, support the local indigenous communites and are located right next to some incredible hikes. Unforutnately the only hikes that you hear about online are Lake 69, Llaganuco Lakes, and the Santa Cruz Trek, however there are so many hikes just as gorgeous without all the crowds that you don’t hear about, where you can leave all the crowds behind. My favorite place about this area is that it still feels like authentic Peru, and the indigenous villages are very traditional, living almost the same way they did about 100 years ago, it’s fascintating to see. Check out this article regarding some "off-the tourist track" day hikes that area actually not too far from Huaraz and just as gorgeous as some of the more popular ones.
Sorry correction, in the first line I meant to say "It’s a shame the Cordillera Blanca" has become synonymous with Huaraz".
Hi Gina, thanks for your tips on more things to do around the Cordillera Blanca. Always good to get a more local perspective.
I hiked the Cordillera Blanca in 1968 and again in 1971. It was not a National Park then. The only hotel was the Termas de Monterrey. I think it’s not Machu Picchu but not quite a secret anymore. I plan to go again in April 2019, and will be thankful for the new amenities like restaurants and bars. In 1968 there was nothing and the trails were empty. Very empty.
That sounds like fun going back to a place you’ve been before. We have so many places we would love to travel back to. Have a great trip!
Great article. We couldn’t agree more! We had heard very little on this area prior to our visit to Peru and fell in love with the area. It easily rivals places in Patagonia and Nepal.
That’s great to hear! I really looks like an amazing place, Katie and I can’t wait to go to Cordillera Blanca someday!
That’s so great to hear! Next time we’re in Peru, we are heading straight for Cordillera Blanca!
Hi Ben, can you recommend any companies in particular that offer the prices you’ve mentioned above, I’m looking at doing Laguna 69 and Santa Cruz, many thanks
Hey Laura, I will have to refer to the guest author of this article for that info. Feel free to reach out them, they have tons of info about trekking in Peru!
This looks absolutely amazing! Would you recommend to bring the warm hiking gear? Or is this something you could rent there?
Great question Angela. You can get pretty cheap rental gear in Huaraz, so I wouldn’t bother bringing too many heavy layers. Bring what you can pack and comfortably carry, but know that you can get most things in town.